Taiwan Day #1 - part 2

After visiting Longshan Temple in the morning, my guide suggested we take a quick look at the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial since it was on the way to where we were going.

While visiting the memorial, I learned a little bit more about Chinese/Taiwanese politics. Taiwan is divided by two political parties - the blue party is for the movement toward uniting with China, and the green party is against it. Due to controversy over Taiwan's relationship with China, and since Chiang Kai-shek is a former president of the Republic of China, recent government leaders from the green party have renamed the memorial without his name, which is now "National Taiwan Democracy Memorial Hall." The complex as a whole is now named "Liberty Square."



Inside the building up the steps is a huge statue of Chiang Kai-shek, which I learned was debated over whether or not to remove him completely.

The unification with China is a hot topic, and the Taiwanese people I spoke to were all against it (although there are no doubt people who favor it as well). Nevertheless, everyone seems to grimly acknowledge that it is something that is happening, gradually, step by step. Due to a supposed scandal with the last president, the current president that got elected is in favor of the unification with China.

Taiwan's independence is a complex issue; according to my guide, Taiwan has never been a part of China. Reading more about it on wikipedia, I learned that viewpoints on the issue range from believing that Taiwan has always been independent to the fact that it has always been a part of China.

After we visited Liberty Square, we went to a press conference for the festival. The festival organizers talked in Chinese while we sat and the press took photos. After that, we had some extra time before the opening night film started, so a group of us walked around the area.











Scooters such as these are the most popular means of transportation.



Although as a pedestrian, you always have to keep on the look out. People can drive them just about anywhere, including narrow and crowded open air markets such as this one.





These black eggs are supposedly called "steel eggs," because they're cooked in soy sauce until they get really hard. I had a chance to try one and it was pretty good.

We came a cross a second temple, much smaller than the one we went to in the morning.






This woman is burning paper replicas of money, which my guide told me that people burn so that their loved ones can use it in the afterlife.



Paper replicas of objects are also frequently burned to send to the spiritual world - telephones, TVs, cars, planes, and houses.

After that, we went to the theater for opening night.



The festival had flown in three other filmmakers besides myself - from France, Italy, and Thailand. Here I am with two of the filmmakers and one of the programmers from the festival -

Taiwan Day #1

I recently got back from the Women Make Waves Film Festival in Taipei, where I spent four and half days touring the city and enjoying the festival. This trip marks my third trip to Asia, which my mom likes to think is a "record" (I told her that three really wasn't much of a record but she says it is for our family, so I guess we can pretend).

I visited a college friend for two weeks in Hong Kong 11 years ago right before they reunited with China, and as I covered in my blog last April, I went to the Women's Film Festival in Seoul, Korea. Despite the similarities between the countries, they are still so distinctly different. Compared to the culture in Seoul, Taipei seems to be several decades ahead in terms of women's rights and GLBT issues. I also learned that Taipei has the largest gay pride parade in Asia.

The culture in Taipei also seems more Westernized - there weren't the same formalities that I found in Seoul. For example, I noticed that people didn't think twice to pour themselves a drink whereas in Seoul it was a definite faux pas. Also, there was a certain awkwardness in the social rules concerning handshaking in Korea that I didn't find to be the case in Taiwan. My volunteer guide did ask me, however, if I minded that she call me by my first name, whereas in Seoul my guide automatically assumed otherwise. Status issues between young and old, male and female, gay and straight, seemed much more pronounced in Korea, and as a result Taiwanese culture, at least in the city, felt very similar to America despite differences in language, religion, and cuisine.

So I'll start at the beginning. Here's the view from the plane as I left L.A. -


After a 14 hour plane ride and a 15 hour time change, I arrived in Taipei late at night and ready to go to sleep and get on schedule with the local time. The next day I woke up at 8AM (something I don't do at home) and was ready to tour the city.


My first stop was Longshan Temple, the oldest and most famous in Taipei. I expected something similar to the Buddhist temple I visited in Seoul, but was pleasantly surprised to find that it was completely different. For starters, the religion at the temple was Tao. Buddhism and Tao are the two main religions in Taiwan, with Buddhism at 35.1% and Taoism at 33%, according to wikipedia.




Since my guide came from a Taoist background, she was able to tell me about the various customs in the temple. It was very crowded that day because it was one of the god's birthdays.







Most people carried several sticks of lit incense, which they carried around and made a wish on before they tossed them into a fire.




In Taoism, there are several different gods, each with their own specialty; you pray to one god if you want to do well in school, another if you want to find love, another if you want to have children, etc. All of the gods were at one time humans, and they are pronounced as gods after they die. From my understanding, there is also an overall God that was not ever human.







Bringing food for the gods is very customary.





Including prepackaged boxes of Chocopie.



I asked my guide what happened to all of the food at the end of the day. She told me that whoever puts it there can come back and take it.


Flowers are also a common gift to bring. These women are making small arrangements outside the temple to sell to visitors.


After the temple, we still had most of the day left to sightsee and enjoy the film festival. I'll continue with that in my next post.